This post is from my store website but I thought I would post it here as well>
This post is intended to be an informative piece on the costs
involved in developing an Australian clothing label. Not mass produced,
Asian made, rebranded garments that are available in discount stores,
but an actual clothing brand whereby the majority of product development
takes place here in Australia.
When trawling through various
forums, especially discussions on clothes shopping, a common theme seems
to be value for money. Quite often posters will share information on
sales, specials, and store offers. There is the occasional lament about
the cost of goods and the seemingly huge mark-ups of goods manufactured
in Asia for a fraction of what they are sold for in Australian stores.
Also, why are similar goods so much cheaper in countries like the US and
UK, even with added postage costs. What with the high living costs in
Australia, maximising the value of hard earned dollars is perfectly
understandable.
Despite the questions, there is very little
information on the expenses involved in the development and manufacture
of an Australian clothing label. So let’s review some of the reasons why
clothing seems to be so expensive in Australia. Before we begin, I
would like to make it clear that I am in no way attempting to justify
prices. My purpose is to explain the costs of manufacturing garments and
especially Australian designed garments which are manufactured off
shore. My knowledge comes from my own personal experience with owning a
clothing label.
Firstly, Australia’s population is a fraction of
that in the US and UK and, as such, our purchasing power from Asian
manufacturers is considerably lower. With our smaller purchasing
quantities, the price of garments is significantly higher per piece.
However,
the setup costs of producing a garment style is the same, regardless of
quantities ordered. Such setup costs include patternmaking, fabric
design and print fabric testing, sample making, bulk fabric printing,
possible product revisions if the initial samples are not to
expectations, and associated administrative costs. These costs need to
be absorbed into the wholesale pricing of a garment. The proportion of
setup costs in each garment is higher if production is in smaller
quantities than in larger quantities. So when you are shopping for brand
name products, and compare them to cheaper products from the discount
stores, you are also paying for quality control measures that may not be
available in cheaper products.
The wholesale cost of a garment
also needs to incorporate sales agent fees – most labels use independent
agents in each state to pre-sell their products as this works out to be
a better fiscal practice than sending staff around the country. Agent
commissions are normally around 10-15% of the wholesale price of a
garment.
Importing into Australia is not a cheap exercise. Aside
from a numerous handling charges and freight costs, there is a 10%
Customs duty imposed on all imported goods where the bulk value is above
$1,000. Over this is the 10% GST charge – GST is calculated on the
value of the goods plus customs duty. All these charges add
approximately 40% more to the value of the goods and must be paid before
the goods are released.
Hypothetically speaking, a garment that
costs $10 from China, may easily become $30 before it even leaves the
designer or wholesaler. The wholesaler then applies a small margin –
very little in most cases (wholesalers rely on bulk sales to make their
profits rather than per garment) – and retailers have their own markup –
usually 100%.
I have also read comments of the high mark-ups and
how retailers have had it “good” for so long. Unfortunately, the costs
of running a retail store in Australia can be exorbitant – rent, wages,
insurance, utility costs, advertising/marketing, banking costs, store
setup costs. I think most Australians would agree that Australia is a
high cost country to live in but those costs filter through all sectors
of the community. Where exchange of money occurs, there is a indirect or
indirect impact on transactions occurring elsewhere. At the end of the
day, most retailers make very little out of a 40-48 hour working week.
If they manage to take home a salary that is similar to what they would
earn as a paid employee in a retail store, most would likely consider
that as a good measure of retail success. Sadly, I think those
opportunities are few and far between.
So why haven't labels gone back to manufacturing in Australia?
To keep the answer simple, it's because of the demand for cheaper goods
that so much of our manufacturing is now offshore which in turn has
been detrimental to available jobs, skills and modern garment making
technology in Australia. Also, with our higher labour costs, domestic
production still costs more than offshore production. It means
Australian produced goods with a higher retail price but with lesser
refinements in the finished product.
Lastly, I am going to
comment about sleepwear. For whatever reason, sleepwear does not hold
the same value, from a consumer point of view, as outerwear. Let’s say,
hypothetically, you purchase a cotton tee and a short for $35 each. You
would consider these to be of average cost. However, a pyjama set
retailing for $70, that uses the same amount of fabric and takes the
same amount of labour to produce, would be deemed over priced by many.
The reality is that a sleepwear item from a brand label is comparable in
manufacturing costs to an outer garment. Both branded sleepwear and
outerwear follow the same development, quality control and manufacturing
processes. Sleepwear from discount stores cost less because they void
many of the steps used by the brand labels. Going from comments I’ve
heard regarding fabric shrinkage, dye leech, poor stitching and overall
fabric quality, my guess is that there is very little or no quality
control measures in place for these garments. So next time you purchase a
branded Australian sleepwear label, you should be confident of
receiving a quality product that should last much longer than a cheaper
product from a discount store.
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