I won't go into details about how to fit a bra as there is sufficient material on the web, as well as lots of Youtube videos on the subject. Instead, I will give you the benefit of some of my knowledge gained as a qualified bra fitter:
- If wires push out from your bust, rather than sitting flush against the breastbone, it means the wires are too small or that your bust is quite full in the middle. Try a wider wire bra or try a bra with a lower front wire.
- If your bust is heavier at the sides, try bras with a side sling as these encourage forward projection of your bust rather than letting your bust slide towards your arms.
- If you have more bust tissue on the lower bust, try a 3/4 cup or a 1/2 cup (balconette) bra. if you use a full cup bra, you may not able able to fill out the top of the cup.
- A heavy top bust? Try full cup bras. These are higher in the middle but they will support you better.
- Chafing at the centre from wires digging in? Try lower cut bras as the wire does not come up so high at the breastbone.
- Breast tissue at the sides spilling from the cups? Look for bras with a higher wire. Panache tends to make bras with a higher side wire, Freya bras tend to have lower side wires.
- Too much back tissue? Try the back smoothing bras that are now available on the market - eg Berlei Back Smoothing Bra.
- Straps digging into your shoulders? Go for bras with a wider shoulder strap or, better still, a padded shoulder strap. You can also purchase pads that fit around your shoulder strap.
- Find wires dig in uncomfortably no matter what bra you try? Unwired bras maybe the answer for you but look for ones with a side sling as these give a large bust a better shape. There are some great brands on the market such as Royce, Aviana and Elila. The only downside is that these bras tend to be higher at the centre, to compensate for the lack of wire support, so low neck clothes will require a camisole or a camisette to hide the bra.
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